So... what did I get up to since I last dropped in? Ahhhh Japan...
Well, I travelled from Tokyo to Matsumoto. I thought I was going to Nagano, but I wasn't. Well, I was going to Nagano province (or something along those lines...) but not Nagano city as I had assumed. Anyway, it all turned out splendidly, and didn't really matter exactly where I was, I suppose! I wandered the city the first day I was there- saw Matsumoto Castle which was pretty speccy, and the Matsumoto Timepiece Museum which was another lovely badge on my lovely- incredible-ticking-wonders vest. I treated myself to a meal out on the town- and it was delish!
The next day I hopped on the bus and travelled up to Kamikochi- in the wonderous heart of the Japanese Alps. And what a day that was! So pristine, so perfect! The starting point of my four hour walk was Kappa-bashi bridge, which crossed the Azumi river, which was to be my constant companion throughout the trek. I stood on the bridge and watched as the river surged upwards, toward the horizon- confidently bisecting the landscape and leading up to the stark, snow capped mountains which looked down knowingly upon me.
Then I walked on raised, planked walkways which twisted and snaked their way between trees and over streams- eased me over swampy, marshy areas and taking my awe-inspired self onward into groves of flaming, golden pine trees which rained their precious bounty all over me.
It was breathtaking!
I almost choked on my stomach when I turned a corner and saw two Makaks casually sitting by the path. Little did I know that was only the beginning of my monkey sightings for that day- there were dozens of stem playing and screaming and fighting. One let me within a metre of him to take some photos, and when my foot slipped and I startled him, I found myself bowing and apologising profusely! And the funniest thing was, he didn't seem to find it strange, he looked at me as though "yes, you should bow and say sorry, you freaking annoying tourist".
In that setting, my mind could run free- which doesn't happen very often for me. It is only incredibly rarely that I am able to think without watching my thoughts from above like some kind of freakishly self-involved reality-show. It's like I am sitting outside of myself with a pen and a clip-board clicking my tongue and writing a disproportionate number of notes...
But anyway, the point is that for a few hours, I was free from myself! It was nice. Like a cool bath on a stinking hot day.
It was just so beautiful, the trees were raging gold, the river looked like liquid crystal, the mountains were so stoic and wise. When I completed my round trip and returned to the bridge, the sun was setting behind the tree-drenched mountains and lighting them from behind so they glowed like lanterns. I had such a special day out there in the Japanese Alps!
But... and there is one heck of a but.
The night was not to prove as special- well, not in a nice way anyway!
I returned to Matsumoto, and jumped on the bike to get back to my hostel. I sped along the road maybe a little too confidently- the lights whizzing by and the wind surging against me. I turned to jump up off the road and onto the sidewalk, and the wheel snagged on the curb. I was launched like a dowanward cannon into the cement. I lay startled and broken on the ground and just ten metres ahead of me the little walking man turned green, and dozens of feet clopped by my head- not a single one even hesitating. I tried to gather myself up as quickly as possible- I wanted to cast off as much as possible of that "stupid foreigner who can't even ride a bike" cape I had draped all over myself. I saw blood on the ground beneath me, and balancing on one leg- because the other was dead at the knee- me fingers found the gaping wound on my chin. I biked back to the hostel- the most painful experience I have had in a long time.
Now, it should be noted that I use the word 'hostel' lightly here, because it was infact the converted top half of a family's home in which I was, that night, the only guest. So I returned there to a cold and empty 'home', my body completely smashed to pieces and not a soul in the world to even cast my eyes to.
My knee was the size of a grapefruit, if not a freaking rockmelon. I spent the night going back and forth between my bed and the toilet holding myself up by the door frames. I had no idea how the heck I was going to catch the train to my next location in the morning, on a knee with absolutely zero weight baring capacity... and I was a little scared! But it all worked out ok! The hostel owner was an angel! He drove me first to a chemist and ordered my supplies for me, then he took me to the station and carried my bag to the platform for me. He was so kind, and SO helpful, and made up for the fact that Japan had really let itself down on the support front the night before. So I managed to get on the train- not without tearing and choking up a few hundred times, and definitely not without my fair share of stares as I hauled that stupid bag around atop my stumbling, limping, ridiculously slow moving body. Good times!
But OH how it all melted away when I got to my next destination! Traish- the girl who took me to the maid cafe in Tokyo- managed to wrangle me into her host-home for a few nights- as her host family really lived up to their label and opened their home and their hearts to me.
Traish met me at the train station, and off we trotted (or rather... off we slowly and painfully ambled...) to karaoke. Yes, Mad at karaoke! I love what this trip has done for me, I love it so much. A few months ago, I would have avoided karaoke like the plague. Now, Traish says "we're going to karaoke", I say "ok", and I have a damn good time!
The next morning we jumped in the car, and I got a guided tour of Traish's school from the head administrator- or some such guy. It was so interesting, so special, those few days to see Japan through a different set of eyes. I mean, I have had this experience of it as a traveller, as someone passing through- floating above it. But it is SO different when you are down there where the residents reside. It is a different world, and my time with Traish meant I got a brief glimpse into that corner of the country. I really appreciate that, and it has added a lot of substance to my experience here. Mariko- Traish's 'Mum' drove us around all day, we saw Nagoya Castle, had lunch, went shopping a little. Then we went to the 'man' and 'woman' shrines. The first is a grand testiment to the penis as the ultimate luck-bringer, with hundreds of phallic sculptures spread out all over the place for people to worship and pray to. The second is an ordinary shrine, with a couple of vaguely vaginal looking rocks and tree stumps literally shoved into a corner round the back. Oh dear...
That night after an INCREDIBLE dinner cooked expertly by Mariko, all four of us- Traish, Mum, Dad and I- played cards and I felt so very comfortable and happy and accepted as we laughed until we cried and had a lot of fun together. Even though the 'parents' and I could not comprehend a word eachother said, I still feel like we understood eachother, and they really did accept me with open arms. It was so lovely there with them!
Traish took me cycling around her home-town the next day, and it was really special for me to be in this place with someone I love so dearly, to have her show me this world that has held her and moved her for all these months.
That night, and people might need to brace themselves for this one, because the shock could prove too much to bear... that night we went to the onsen! I know... there aren't even words to describe just how monumental the changes must have been in me to see me go and strip down to the ultimate vulnerability in a public place crawling with other people... That moment when I actually had to pull off my clothes- it was like when you push an earring through an ear that has started to close over, that push and crack to open it up again... But once they were off... I felt amazingly free, and comfortable in a way I never have been before. I mean, I am not about to start cruising the streets in the nude, but it was an experience I was glad to have had, and that I really appreicated Traish for allowing for me.
We breathed some special mineral-air, and had doctor fish nibble away at our feet- which was seriously one of the coolest experiences of my life!
I had to say goodbye to Traish the next day, and it hurt!
I was off to Kyoto.
Now I have to list all the temples I went to... have fun reading it!
The first notable temple was Sanjusangen, in which there are enshrined one thousand statues of the thousand-armed Kannon along with one principle image of the same deity which just pulsated presence in the centre of this massive hall filled to the brim with row upon row of bronze statues. It was rather spectacular.
The next on my itinerary for my ridiculously rainy first day in Kyoto was Kiyomizudera which was nestled in the treetops in the side of a mountain like a nest filled with glistening treasures. The rain beat down and the water inched up the legs of my pants, but it somehow just made it all the more beautiful!
I saw Nijo Castle which was really very special. It was incredibly regal and stately, but also simple and humble and unassuming. As I walked around the halls I was accompanied by the gentle twitter of the 'nightingale floor' which squeaks softly whenever it is stepped upon.
I went to the food market which was a world unto itself, and then to Gion which was reall just like stepping back in time. I turned a corner from the dizzying, fast paced, neon lined city street into this ancient fuedal world where a samurai could have dashed out at any second. I didn't see a geisha, and I don't want to talk about it!
The next day I went to Chion-in Temple, Heien-Jingu shrine, Ginkakuji Temple, Eikan-do temple and Nanzen-ji temple. The last three of these were particular highlights as I walked through the most absolutely perfect autumnal gardens and woods and the buildings themselves were really, really beautiful. I followed 'the philosopher's path' between the temples which was pretty pretty I guess...
That evening I wandered an incredibly old lantern-lined street and marveled at it's beauty- and still didn't see a damn Geisha even though they should have been there. Sigh.
I travelled then to Nara- the old capital of Japan. It was a beautiful city- even if the deer that wander the streets are slightly less adorable than they are mangy. Todai-ji Temple is the main attraction of Nara, the largest wooden structure in the world, and housing a MASSIVE statue of Buddha which was awfully impressive.
On the main street of Nara was a little shop which made fresh cakes made from rice which is pounded until it is almost gelatinous and then filled with my new favourite thing on the planet- sweet red bean paste. They smashed the rice right there before my very eyes, and the paste went in and I ate to my heart's content!! Mmmmmmmmmmmmmm...
The next morning I went to Fushini Inari shrine- which I think is my favourite of the MANY I have seen here. I walked up the stairs to the beginning of the torri-gate paths and my heart just melted and spilled out all around me! Oh my god, it was SO perfect! I meandered through the glowing orange gated paths- the splendid wood flickering and flitting in luscious little cameos through the spaces between the poles. Birds were singing their songs and water was gently rapping itself against stone and roots and dirt. There weren't many people there in the morning, which only made the whole experience all the more wonderful! The paths led to little shrine clusters set in all concievable corners of the forest. It looked, in these corners and glens and pond banks as though some giant had been walking with a sack full of thousands of shrines and every once in a while would shake some loose and they sat where they had fallen.
The paths led quite deep into the forest and the further I went, the more the people melted away, until it was just me and the glory of the 'wilderness'. The gates were so beautiful, and the wood felt like another world- another planet. It was almost syruppy, like I was floating, but still held firm and strong...
That afternon I went to Arashiyama and walked through the beautiful bamboo forest there. I found myself at Jojakkoji temple which was tucked away in the corner of these woods, and I felt like I was wrapped up in a downy blanket. The building itself sat atop this beautiful mossy knoll, wrapped almost like a present by a ridiculous number of trees- which were either the deepest, lushest greens or those firey passionate autumn hues I have spoken about so much!
There were more temples, but does every one need a mention? I think not!
The next day I took the Shinkansen down to Hiroshima. I was going to spend the morning on Miyajima- a small island not far from Hiroshima- and then spend the afternoon in the city. What had started as a one day plan soon evolved into two when I arrived at Miyajima and realised that a few hours would never be enough! As I approached the island on the ferry, the beautiful floating torri-gate got closer and closer... it warmed my heart a little!
I climbed up one side of Mt Misen which was one of the great walks of my trip! At the top I was rewarded with a spectacular view of the water and the cities across the liquid expanse. The colours melted so comfortably and naturally into one another- it was like someone had worked for hours getting all the shades just right. I went down the other side of the mountain, and was amazed by how different the two environments were. I went from these stark stone valleys to paths through virtual rainforest- so moist and damp and green.
Then I went back to Hiroshima the next day. And it was one of the densest and most emotionally raw days of my entire journey. Honestly, the moment I stepped out of the train station and into the city, I felt it- something hit me. I was overcome with this incredibly tangible sense of what had happened there and was practically writhing with grief! I mean, it is not a sad city- it is an inspiration really, because it recovered so unbelieveably successfully and is a testament to the human spirit and courage and determination. But... I was just hit by an emotional tidal wave, as all those people all those years ago- they suddenly became all too real. They became everyone who walked past me on the street. I saw a little girl toddle across my path and I couldn't help but imagine her burnt and broken with her skin hanging off her. It sounds awfully morbid... I guess it was a little! It just broke my heart, that people suffered like that, in a way I cannot even begin to comprehend, and it was all at the hands of fellow human beings. Suffering that seems almost impossible to me, suffering that was handed from the minds, thoughts and actions of living, breathing human beings to the very core of other living, breathing human beings. I cannot even get my mind around it. It just balls up in my chest and in my throat, because in no part of me can I understand how that is possible, how that could ever occur. Anyway, it was increibly powerful. The memorials and the museums were moving and rich and increibly impressive. They were so sensitive and insightful and understanding. So human and intimate and honest. There was no bullshit, there was no beating around the bush. It was direct but it was incredibly aware. There was just an incredible amount of care and thought and reflection that went into all those monuments etc... and you knew that the people who worked on them had done so with every part of their mind, body and soul.
Next day I visited Traish one last time and was taken to dinner and karaoke again- good times! And then, on my last day, I visited a couple more temples, including the Golden Pavilion, or Kinkakuji, which was pretty amazing, and then I spent a few hours lying down in the International Manga Museum reading from their library. There are like... a freaking million manga books in there... and about 30 are in English! So, I guess I had something to choose from... ha ha ha... if only I read Japanese.
I didn't make it to the end of the blog last night... and now it is the morn of my last day, I will get on a train soon, to the airport, and then I will wait to step aboard the craft that will carry me home!
I am excited... I am sad and dissapointed and sorry to end this thing I have been doing, but I am relieved and very, very excited to get back home- to see the people I love so achingly and to start my new life there.
I will write one more blog when I am back home- to put a lighter to the ends of the threads so they don't fray... but until then... wish me luck as I wind up this chapter in my life and hope I don't balls it up too bad right at the last second!!!
